To see a fraternity may seem an easy task; the procession takes place all over the city and at any one point outside the official route you can go and have a look. However, you should keep a few things in mind. Firstly, a lot of the fraternities parade through narrow streets in the old quarter. Some of them deliberately go through the most picturesque nooks and crannies possible. The passing of the Pasos through incomparable places is essential to the composition of this work of art, as the city becomes the setting for the culmination of the Passion and Death of Jesus Christ. A Paso , illuminating with its candles a small hidden aquare in Seville, the spectacular work of the team of Costaleros who parade the Pasos through the narrow streets without any problem, and yje encircling sound of a Fraternity march in a narrow street are basic elements of the highlights of the week. Getting to these places requires certain skill for the inexperienced. It is not difficult to get lost in the maze of streets in the old part the Seville, even the locals do. The best spots, or at least the best known ones, to see a Fraternity quickly fill up with crowds (see " CROWDS" ).
It is not always a good idea to stand through a whole procession. Some of the Fraternities take two hours or more to go by (from the Cruz de Guia to the music band that usually accompanies the Pasos). An experience like this could put your back and you feet out action for the rest of the day. Of course,you always have the alternative of renting a chair somewhere along the Official route.
* Before you starting your day at the processions, you should plan what you want to see and where, You can then very this accordingly.
* Don´t be too ambitious to see everithig. Keep in mind that this is impossible not only because Holy Week allows too little time but not even a person from Seville who has spent their life trying will get to see it all. The moto is: "Quality before quantity".
* Think of the time that you will be either standing or walking keeping in mind your age and physical fitness. Make as many stops as necessary (or more) at the wonderful all-night sidewalk cafés and bars dotted throughout the city.
* Although a lot of people do, it is advisaqble to follow tha procession of Pasos by standing in front of them. This is unconfortable for you ( you can be stood on,pushed,elbowed...) and it is unfair not only to those who are watching the Fraternities from the sides,but to the actual Paso which will find it difficult to get past.
* Ask the people from Seville for information whenever you want. Most of them will be only delighted to advise visitors on the most interesting places and moments of each day.
* In order to see in details the astistic treasure of the Paso, banners and the other elements which from part of the procession, the wisest thing to do is to visit the respective temples on the morning of the day they are going to parade. Here everything is on display with some of the candles lit the flowers arranged, waiting for the moment of departure.
THE CROWDS
As has been previously explained in the little dictionary of Holy Week, the word "Bulla" refers to the crowds of people which in this case are beside the processions and in the adjacent streets. The growing number or people present during Holy Week in Seville has meant that the hussle and bussle is all part of the overall event. Locals and outsiders closely gather together in masses around pactically all of the Fraternity routes. However, the crowds get particularly intense in certain areas:
* In the most important points along the route, especially at the entrances and exits.
* Around the starting point of the official route (Plaza del Duque and La Campana) or at the end of the route (Plaza Virgen de3 los Reyes at the exit of Cathedral).
* In certain places which are recognised as the most beatiful spots along the route of some of the Fraternities. This is case, for instance, in the Arco del Postigo and on the most important days(Holy Thursday,the early morning of Good Friday and the evenig of Good Friday) places like the Plaza de la Alfalfa or the Plaza del Salvador. In many cases, thhe crowds don´t gather at the exact moment the Fraternity passes through these places but rather at the entrance or exit of these places.
* The entire route of the most popular Fraternities from the time they leave until the time they return: La Macarena,El Señor del Gran Poder and La Esperanza de Triana are examples.
* According to experts, these crowds are differents to everyday ones in so far as they maintain certain codes of behaviour. Normally in the crowds during Holy Week, there is an air of knowing how to do behave, a certain identification among all those involved and a rejection of selfish of rude attitudes. All the locals complain about the crowds but underneath it all, they accept that part of the celebration lies precisely in that sea of people through which the Pasos seem so sail. Contemporary Easter would be incomprehensible eithout the crowds moving around and contributing to the staging of Holy Week.
However,like a fluid, the crowds can get to such levels of intensity that it is difficult to enjoy the celebration. Because of this, it is only common sense to try and avoid these jams.
TIPS FOR MOVING THROUGH THE CROWS
* Nothig serious is going to happen in the crowds. Some of people who are not familiar with them feel overcome or in danger in one of these gatherings and get nervous. There is no need to worry, since there is no record of anything serious ever happening in the crowds in Seville at Easter.
* Good behaviour and politeness are saviour if you have to go through the crowds. What is more, the people from Seville tend to be more tolerant with outsiders than with their own.
* Anyway, it is better to try and avoid going against the tide and needless to say, do not attempt to cross throught the crowds in the busiest places ( above all, when the Paso is approaching).ñ If you get caught up in the crowds, it is much better to be patient and wait for them to disperse.
* If you want to see some of the fraternities coming out of or going into the their temples, or in some narrow street or square which is difficult to get to, try to do so well in advance.
* Needless to say, if you have children with you, try to see the Fraternities in open spaces, in places where the smaller numbers of people allow the children to stand in the front row without any danger (you will soon be imitating the children by shouting,"Nazareno,give me a sweet!").
* In the most important points along the route, especially at the entrances and exits.
* Around the starting point of the official route (Plaza del Duque and La Campana) or at the end of the route (Plaza Virgen de3 los Reyes at the exit of Cathedral).
* In certain places which are recognised as the most beatiful spots along the route of some of the Fraternities. This is case, for instance, in the Arco del Postigo and on the most important days(Holy Thursday,the early morning of Good Friday and the evenig of Good Friday) places like the Plaza de la Alfalfa or the Plaza del Salvador. In many cases, thhe crowds don´t gather at the exact moment the Fraternity passes through these places but rather at the entrance or exit of these places.
* The entire route of the most popular Fraternities from the time they leave until the time they return: La Macarena,El Señor del Gran Poder and La Esperanza de Triana are examples.
* According to experts, these crowds are differents to everyday ones in so far as they maintain certain codes of behaviour. Normally in the crowds during Holy Week, there is an air of knowing how to do behave, a certain identification among all those involved and a rejection of selfish of rude attitudes. All the locals complain about the crowds but underneath it all, they accept that part of the celebration lies precisely in that sea of people through which the Pasos seem so sail. Contemporary Easter would be incomprehensible eithout the crowds moving around and contributing to the staging of Holy Week.
However,like a fluid, the crowds can get to such levels of intensity that it is difficult to enjoy the celebration. Because of this, it is only common sense to try and avoid these jams.
TIPS FOR MOVING THROUGH THE CROWS
* Nothig serious is going to happen in the crowds. Some of people who are not familiar with them feel overcome or in danger in one of these gatherings and get nervous. There is no need to worry, since there is no record of anything serious ever happening in the crowds in Seville at Easter.
* Good behaviour and politeness are saviour if you have to go through the crowds. What is more, the people from Seville tend to be more tolerant with outsiders than with their own.
* Anyway, it is better to try and avoid going against the tide and needless to say, do not attempt to cross throught the crowds in the busiest places ( above all, when the Paso is approaching).ñ If you get caught up in the crowds, it is much better to be patient and wait for them to disperse.
* If you want to see some of the fraternities coming out of or going into the their temples, or in some narrow street or square which is difficult to get to, try to do so well in advance.
* Needless to say, if you have children with you, try to see the Fraternities in open spaces, in places where the smaller numbers of people allow the children to stand in the front row without any danger (you will soon be imitating the children by shouting,"Nazareno,give me a sweet!").
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